Kobbe Kid Returns
I flew out
of Howard a little over 45 years ago. It was July 5, 1962 and in my minds eye I
can still see P. J., Bunky, Jerry, Nancy and others at the bottom of the
boarding ramp as I turned just before entering the doorway of the airplane. This was the first time I remember having
any feelings about moving and I had very mixed emotions.
So here I
sit, looking out the window of another airplane. Only now, instead of leaving, this plane is landing at Tocumen,
just north of Panama City.
Monday,
October 22nd, 2007
It’s 12:55
in the afternoon and I sped through Immigration. Allan Hawkins was meeting me at the airport, but somehow we
missed one another. I collected my
luggage and hailed the first available cab. I will be staying at the Country
Inn and Suites on the Amador Causeway.
As soon as he left the curb, I am sure that my driver was a Kamikaze
pilot in a former life. One thing I
feel I know for sure is that wherever we are going, no one is going to get
there ahead of us. We were on a toll
road and he stopped a couple of times to pay.
Of course, in 1962, there were no toll roads and there was never a
skyline like I was seeing now. I
counted at least 20 high rises with cranes being constructed. That’s not counting those that weren’t high
enough for me to see. I didn’t
recognize a thing and if not for the hills and the bay, I would have absolutely
no idea where I was. Miraculously, we made
it to the hotel in one piece and I’m sure, in record time.
It’s 86 degrees
and humid. I can’t describe the smell
in the air, but instantly remembered after all these years – it wasn’t bad and
it wasn’t good – it was…….. Panama.
I’ll be
staying in tonight. I had to check out
of my hotel in New Orleans at 4:00 am, so I never did go to bed. Also, there is a TGI-Friday’s right here at
the hotel so I don’t need to leave the property to eat. Tomorrow I will rent a car and make Balboa
my first stop. I sure hope that cabby
isn’t around when I hit the road.
Tuesday, Oct. 23rd.
I had
trouble getting to sleep last night. I
think I was just overly tired from a lack of sleep. I called Hertz Rent a Car and was told they would bring a car to
me in about an hour. It turned out to
be two hours, but hey, this is Panama.
They brought me a cute little Renault.
We don’t have them in the U.S. anymore, but who cares it will serve its
purpose. I do have to pay very careful
attention as to where I park it though.
The damn thing changes color from blue to green.
I was in
Balboa in no time. Some things are as I
remember, but much has changed. The
theater and clubhouse are still here, but the clubhouse is empty. I was expecting to see merchants selling
their wares in Stevens circle, but there are none. Of course, the Balboa Union Church is here as are both banks and
the post office. I can still look up
the center of the Prada and see the Administration Building and the Goethals
Memorial. Balboa High is standing as
before, the main building, the JC, the gym, auditorium and even the ROTC
building – all still here. Other
buildings have gone up around the old ones, making it difficult to take
recognizable pictures. I took many and
decided to head to Fort Clayton. This
is not as easy as one might expect.
Balboa is now a major container terminal and there is a highway that
wasn’t here before. The regular streets
are still here, but I guess you just have to be lucky enough to find them – I
wasn’t. Also, signs that would help are
in Spanish and are few and far between.
So, I followed a sign that said, “Colon”. That is the direction I want
to go, right? Wrong move! This puts me on a highway that literally is
bypassing everything. I stopped and
paid tolls twice to toll takers who did not speak a word of English. Finally, after almost ten miles, I see an
off ramp marked, “Central Panama”. I
maneuver my little Renault off the highway and into a very busy area. I don’t see the taxi driver from yesterday,
but everyone around me is driving like him.
I manage to get turned around and lo and behold there is an on ramp that
goes in the opposite direction from whence I came. So, back on the toll road I go.
Within a few miles, much to my surprise, there is an off ramp, an arrow
and a sign that says, “Clayton”. I am
so lucky.
This exit actually is the back entrance to
Clayton and things to some degree are starting to look a little familiar.
The house
I had lived in was on the backside of Clayton, and in no time at all I can see
it. It is now pink and is occupied and
of course, I pulled off the road to take a picture. This is so cool. Now, I’m
off to Clayton proper. Most all the old
buildings are still here. The PX and
snack bar, the EM Club, the pool and even the old theater, though abandoned, is
still here. The only thing missing is
the Teen Club, but I haven’t been able to locate it on Goggle Earth
either. After pictures, I’m now heading
to the old CFN building. It and others
around it are still in place, but it appears that they are being converted to
apartments or some other use. So, more
pictures and off I go to the front housing area. I’ve taken a few pictures of the houses like EMO used to live in
and I stop to recollect before moving on.
I pull over and look at the old PX and EM Club. It seems as though they
were much larger 45 years ago. Maybe
it’s just that they, along with everything else I’ve seen today have just been
so big in my memories.
This has
been a good day. I’ll take a couple of
pictures of the old Miraflores Bridge before heading back. I turn left after going through Clayton’s
main gate and go past Albrook AFB on my way to Balboa. Now I see how I got screwed up on my first
try. I must make a mental note.
I headed
back through Balboa, on my way to the Causeway. I even found the entrance to the Bridge of the America’s. That will come in handy tomorrow. I’ve decided to drive out to the end of the
Causeway. There has been and there
still is, much landfill. There are
hotels, restaurants, a convention center and even a Mall. These are all new buildings. The old Amador buildings that remain are
abandoned. I spotted a restaurant
called, “Mi Ranchita”, that looks good, so I guess it will be Mexican food
tonight. Now, back in my room with the
sliding glass door open, I think to myself, “I never did see a kid selling
ginnups – damn.
This seems
like a good time to talk about driving in Panama. Aye, Carumba! The taxi
driver I had yesterday was apparently the norm. Speed limits are posted (in km) but you (they) don’t pay attention
to them. Stop signs are visible but you
(they) don’t pay attention to those either.
Unless you (they) are on a divided road, you (they) don’t have to even
stay on the correct side and passing seems to be allowed anyway possible. Wow! This is fun. It seems like the only traffic law adhered to are traffic
lights. Well, I guess there has to be
some sort of law and order.
Speaking
of that, National Police and buildings with National Police written on them
seem to be everywhere. The only one however
that paid any attention to me was on foot around Balboa High. He would walk toward me, I would take a
picture and he would veer off. He never
did let me out of his sight. He got
close once, so I just nodded and walked the other way.
It’s after
6:00 pm – time to freshen up, check email and head to dinner.
Dinner was
nice. Nice, but not what I
expected. Like, why wouldn’t a little
guy from California think that a place called, “Mi Ranchita”, was
Mexican??? I’ve been gone much too
long. I had prawns and empanadas. These were not the empanadas you and I know
and love. The inside is good, but I
have no idea what this corn like stuff they’re wrapped with is. I think they
are deep fried.
So, with
my tummy full, I head back to the hotel.
Let’s see what’s good on the TV tonight.
Television, obviously, has changed much over the years. Of course there is no more Army PFC Gunner
Bennett or CFN. And ABC, CBS and NBC
don’t seem to exist. There is however
plenty of channels on cable to choose from. There are some in Spanish, some in
English with Spanish subtitles and some just in English. I can’t find a local news channel in
English, so that would be a problem to some if you don’t speak Spanish. I found the WB and a couple of movie
channels, so I’m good for the night.
Wednesday, October 24th.
I
connected with Allan and he’s picking me up at 1:30. This will be a good day.
I meet Allan in the lobby and now we are heading to Kobbe. This is the first time for me crossing the Bridge
of the Americas. I remember as a kid
wanting to be one of the first to cross it.
But, it was not to be – we left just before it was completed. Once over the bridge, it seems like no time
at all before there is a sign that says, “Howard”. We are passing Farfan, which seems to be alive and well. On the right is a Dell Computer training
facility, and soon, right in front of us, is the old main gate. It no longer has the words Kobbe or Howard
on it, but it is still here. Allan
slowed his little Toyota, till the National Policeman waived us through. We are here. We are on Kobbe. We passed the Commissary and are at the
Theater in no time. I can see all the
houses. Someone has painted all the
buildings white – hmm, don’t know if I like that. We continue straight and find every street on our left, where all
the houses are, barricaded. This is not
good. Not good at all. We turn left
onto the last street, as it is the only one open. A National Policewoman stopped us. Allan, in Spanish, explained who we were, why I was here and what
we want to do. She said OK and we are
on our way. There are a number of
National Police in formation. This as I
have heard is a training facility for a special force, similar to our SWAT
units. At least that is what Allan
thinks they are.
This now
looks to be all familiar, except for the white paint. The first house we come to that is on my photo list is Barbara
Bibby’s. As we turn the corner, there
are two National Policemen at the curb in front of her house one on a
motorcycle, the other with a bicycle.
Allan and I both get out. I’m
taking pictures and Allan is speaking with them in Spanish. One of them, the one with the motorcycle
offers to escort us to my old house on Commissary Hill. We didn’t need an escort, but for some
reason we have one. So, we are
following him. No matter, we can come
back here and take the rest of the pictures afterward. I see it.
There it is – my old house.
Damn, I loved that house. Other
then the white paint, it looks the same as I remember. Air conditioning must have been put in at
sometime because the old shutters are gone and the windows are now all
glass. I just took my first picture and
all of a sudden this National Policeman is going ballistic, yelling, “No picture,
no picture”. We were then ordered to
follow him to the National Police office which was behind the Commissary. I’m staying in the car as Allan goes inside. They don’t speak English anyway and I don’t
speak Spanish. So, it is probably best
that I just stay sitting in the car.
Allan apparently sweet talked a Superior officer, so now he is escorting
us back to my old house. Now, it’s OK
that I take pictures and I can take as many pictures as I want – of my house
only and nothing else. Strange! So now, after taking my pictures, we are
being escorted back to headquarters and have to leave the base. He posed for a picture and I thanked
him. I’m a little disappointed, but,
had it not been for Allan, I would have nothing at all. Besides, tomorrow, I’m coming back. No, I’m not nuts (well, maybe a
little). But, now I know how to
play. The hanger side of the base is
open and occupied by Dell Computer and I should have no problem driving through
that area. I can use my telephoto lens
to get some of the shots I want.
So, Allan
and I are now going back across the Bridge and heading for Panama City, Casco
Viejo and Casco Antigua to be exact.
This is the French Quarter of the city and there are many iron balconies
like the ones found in New Orleans. This
area is also home to the National Theater, Presidential Palace and the Panama
City Cathedral that houses the Golden Alter.
I’m unable to take a picture of the Alter because there is a funeral
going on and the place is filled to the rafters. I didn’t ask, but, I really don’t think the people would move out
of the way to let an American tourist take a picture. We went across the street to visit a friend of Allan’s. His name is Lloyd and he had lived in Santa
Barbara, California for 40 years. He
has lived in Panama four years and is producing a cartoon. The cartoon will feature a little octopus,
and the purpose is to teach children the hazards of disposing plastic in salt
water. In the end, the little purple
octopus dies because his tentacles get caught in a six pack piece of plastic.
Our next
stop is the statue of Balboa overlooking the bay. In the near future, this statue is going to be, “Relocated”. It seems, that just about all of the
waterfront property is scheduled to be developed with high rise condos, hotels
and apartments. I took a few pictures
and bought a few gifts from street merchants before leaving.
Allan’s
wife, Elena, works not far from where we are.
She works for the Tourism Department, so we will stop so I can meet
her. She is a very nice lady and is
trying very hard to learn English. I
bought a few more things from the Tourism Store before Allan and I leave. Now we are at the Old Panama City
ruins. Yes, after all these years, they
are still ruined – they have not been repaired. What has happened is that many measures have been taken to keep
them safe and to keep them from deteriorating any further. All new infrastructures are made with modern
materials. That way the visitor can
tell the difference between the old and the new. One new feature is a steel stairway inside of the old
tower. Now you can safely go to the top
for a really great view.
After the
ruins, we go across the parking lot to a co-op of primarily Kuna Indians
selling their wares. Here, you can find
molas, dolls and many other crafts and souvenirs. I purchased the dolls Sandy wanted from two different booths and
now I’m talking with a lady who worked on Kobbe, Clayton and other US bases
before they closed. Her English is
excellent and I found a beautiful hand carved, burned and painted, wood plaque
that was the old crest for the Canal Zone, “The Land Divided, The World
United”. It’s about 13 inches across
and is very well done. I just had to
have that for myself.
I’ve taken
a few more pictures and Allan and I are
on our way back to pick up Elena from work. We’re going to a restaurant in Balboa called, “Shamrocks”.
“Shamrocks”, is connected to the “Elks Lodge” and Allan says it is a
meeting place for ex-pat Americans. We
had a nice dinner, took more pictures and now I’m waiving goodbye from the
front of the hotel. Tomorrow - it’s
back to Kobbe......heh heh!
Thursday, October 25th.
It’s raining quite a bit today, so I think I
will stick around Amador and Balboa.
Kobbe isn’t going anywhere and I want to be able to have the car windows
down enabling me to take pictures without getting out of the car. So, that plan will just have to wait till
tomorrow.
It’s
funny, but some things have a way of appearing obvious because of their
absences. For example there are no
little kids selling ginnups (mammones) on the street. I had thought of coming here and stuffing myself with ginnups and
empanadas. “Where the hell are
they?” Another thing missing from
street corners are the people selling lottery tickets that were attached to
plywood boards. Do they still even have
the lottery? I’ve seen no evidence of it, but that doesn’t mean it is no
more. It quite possibly may have
modernized and is similar to ours.
Anyway, tomorrow, it will be Kobbe again and then an empanada and ginnup
hunt. Tonight I am going down the
Causeway to an Italian restaurant. I
know that it is Italian because it says so, in neon yet – so there.
Friday, October 26th.
I am on
my way across the bridge and headed to Kobbe.
Well, I thought I was anyway. I
made a wrong turn somewhere, but managed to get turned around and going in the
right direction. It was not my fault!
Really! It wasn’t. They save a lot of
money in Panama by not putting up many signs.
Like the one that said “Howard”.
There were choices to make after that first (and only) sign, but there
were no more signs to help. OK, I got
it down now. I can see the gate. I slow
way down, almost to a stop when the National Policeman waived me on. Heh heh - I have it made now (I hope). Allan had told me that the base chapel was
now open and holding Catholic services every Sunday at 10:30. So I am pulling up in the Chapel’s
driveway. Guess what? Yep, you got it – pictures. I’m going just a little past the Chapel and,
now have a clear view of Elaine’s old house.
So, another picture! While in
front of the Chapel, I am also taking pictures up the old parade field toward
the hangers.
I had
thought about going out to the beach, which is now totally covered by the
Intercontinental Hotel & Spa, but if you don’t have a reservation or an
appointment, they won’t let you past their gate. Not a problem, we already have pictures that Allan got for us.
When
passing the theater, I noticed that the barricades were way down past the pool
driveway. So now, I get to take
pictures of the theater and the pool.
It appears that the pool is still being used – by the National
Police. They are standing or sitting
around the front of the pool. I don’t
see any uniforms or radios, so hey, what the heck – they can be in the picture
too. Before I pull out of the drive to
make my escape, I will take a picture of the house that Jerry Denton used to
live in. Got it! At this point, I think I have pressed my
luck about as far as I should and decide to leave. As I pass by the Commissary, the bad, bad policeman from the
other day passed me going in the opposite direction. I was by myself and in a different car, so he never noticed
me. I guess I showed him.
I’m heading back to the bridge now and as
I said before, Farfan seems to be alive and well, but, I can’t say the same
thing for Cocoli. Most every building
is torn down and nothing is left but the foundations.
OK, were
at “Nikos” in Balboa. Will they have
the illusive empanada? Will they?? Will they?? No such luck. Thank goodness the recipe from the Diablo
Club House is on the CZBRATS website.
As far as ginnups, I guess it’s just not the right season.
Speaking
of seasons, we used to tell people that Panama has two seasons: Dry and
rainy. It now seems that the Tourist
Bureau decided that the word “rainy” is a negative so now the two seasons are:
Dry and Green. I always thought
everything was green year round. But
hey, who am I to point this out to them?
I’m back
on the Causeway now. I’m going out to
see what all is in the shopping center here.
Let’s see – there are numerous restaurants, a real estate developer that
plans on putting condos on Las Brisas Isle along with deep water docking for
cruise ships. There is also a Dollar
Store, however there is very little in here you can get for a dollar. I guess their concept of a store title is
different than what I’m used to. I
spotted a real Mexican restaurant, so I will come back here tonight. For now, it’s back to the hotel.
Dinner is
not bad. It took two servers to wait on
me because the little girl who started couldn’t speak any English, and as a
result, couldn’t answer any of my questions or requests. The restaurant only had one other occupied
table and I was hers. It wasn’t her
fault I couldn’t speak Spanish, so when I left, I tipped her and the guy who
ended up taking my order. I ate outside
so I could people watch. There are lots
of people on the Causeway and traffic is heavy.
Restaurant prices, like most things, are lower in Panama compared to the
US. Example – I ordered a combination:
2 tacos, 2 enchiladas, 2 taquitos and a burrito, all for $8.00. All that would cost more than that even if
you go to Taco Bell in the US. And, no,
I didn’t eat it all. It was the only
combination they had and didn’t come with rice and beans.
One thing
that has not changed in Panama over the last 45 years is the Chiva. They are still everywhere and painted as
individually as the people that own them.
Most of the chiva’s are former US school buses and the fare is still
only $.25. You pay when you get
off. Some enterprising owners have
converted their chivas into “Party Buses”.
Most of the seats have been removed for dancing to either a live band or
DJ and a full open bar is provided. The
cost is all in 4’s. They take a maximum
of 40 people for 4 hours for a total of $400.00. That’s ten bucks a head.
Not bad for a nights entertainment.
Sometime next year, Panama, is to inaugurate a State run bus
system. What impact, if any this will
have on the chiva is unknown at this time.
As far as
personal transportation, the large SUV’s seem to hold the same status here as
they do in American cities. For the
most part though, you will find small economy cars, coming mainly from Japan,
Korea, France and the BMW from Germany.
Many of the makes, such as my Renault, and some of the body styles of
other makes, are not even available in the US.
There are not that many American cars.
If you see one, it is usually a Chevy Cavalier, and is not made in the
US. I think my Trans Am would stand out
like a sore thumb here. Hell, I’d be
afraid to even drive it here.
I need to
turn in early tonight as Allan is picking me up for another tour at
9:00am. He has also, graciously invited
me to go with him to Gatun to attend the Baptism of his Grand Daughter. I feel quite honored.
Saturday, October 27th.
I have
had a very bad night, so I called Allan and gave my apologies, then went back
to bed. After catching a little sleep I
eventually started feeling a little better.
I drove down to the mall, got a banana nut gelato cone, and just sat and
watched the people. That was about all
I wanted for lunch and it was so big, I couldn’t even eat it all. This being Saturday, the mall was a little
more crowded.
Next, I
drove into Balboa and started driving around looking at the houses. Many of the old single story homes have been
replaced with two story models and many have iron fences, gates and bars on the
windows. I don’t know if it is for
effect or security. My guess would be
security because of the bars on the windows.
Can Balboa be that unsafe of a neighborhood? I asked Allan about it a few days later and he said it was a
combination of things and part of it came from the old French heritage.
Now, I’ve
pulled into the parking lot of the old Army Navy YMCA in Balboa. One end of it now houses a co-op of
crafters, which appear to be mainly Kuna Indians. I’ve picked out a few molas and a Panama Coin display for my
friend Peter. The young man helping me
is one of the few that speaks English, so he is taking care of the other
sellers that have the items I want.
Allan told me the YMCA in Ancon has done the same thing except it is
much bigger.
Back at
Country Inn & Suites, it’s time to relax before going to dinner. Tonight will be Italian food, also on the
Causeway at a place called Michelangelo’s.
I’m pretty much sticking to the Causeway at night because I don’t know
what areas are or are not safe in Panama City and I wouldn’t know how to get
there anyway. Again, I’m sitting
outside watching people and traffic.
I’ve counted at least four of the Party Buses I told you about
earlier. They are loud, but everyone on
board seems to be having a blast. Since
the people are on their feet dancing, the bus goes slow, holding up traffic – I
know, as I was behind a couple of them as I was heading back to the hotel. They do pull over at one point and it
appears that everyone gets off. It also
looks like they are having a bar-b-q, but I’m not entirely sure about
that. I found an article in one of the
tourist booklets about the Party Buses. Apparently they have had a problem in
the past because one of the few rules the passengers have to abide by is they
are not allowed to expose any body parts.
I bet that sure drops the fun factor.
Sunday, October 28th.
It’s
raining quite a lot again today, but fortunately my little Renault has good
wipers. So I am off to Curundu and
Ancon. Curundu is much like Balboa in
that most of the houses are occupied and some are newer than the ones from the
60’s. I went to the YMCA in Ancon and
even though the co-op is larger, they sell the same things as the one in
Balboa. So, here I am back at the
Balboa YMCA. The young man that was
here before is here again today and he even remembers my name. We gather what I think is the last of my
gifts to bring back home, so it’s time to head back to the hotel. Earlier, I had spotted a restaurant almost
all the way out on the Causeway called “Bennigans”. It has an Irish sounding name, but I have absolutely no idea what
they serve. All I know is that it is
large and looks quite nice. So, it will
be a surprise.
Back at
the Country Inn & Suites, I go to the business center to do the email
thing. They have four computers for the
customers and it is free of charge. The
same thing at the hotel in New Orleans cost $7.00 for up to 20 minutes.
I park in
the lot next to Bennigans and go inside.
This place is nice. They have an
indoor dinning room, a covered, outside dinning room and yet another outside
dinning room with a bar. I pick a table
right on the Marina. A young lady
brings me a menu and I can actually read part of it. The name of what you are ordering is in English but the
description is in Spanish. I don’t
understand this concept. There are pictures though, so that helps a little
bit. I ordered the half rack of baby
back ribs. According to the picture,
they come with fries and cold slaw. I
already know that if I wanted something other than slaw it was just going to be
too bad, cause guess what – you got it – no English. I also ordered a glass of red wine. Because the menu didn’t say and the waitress didn’t know, she
brought the bottle for me to look at to see if it was OK. It was, and it turned out to be a really
great meal – all for $15.00. Now, if
you are a Pensionado, there would even be a discount on top of that. I’ll explain that later.
Monday, October 29th.
Today is
my last day here. Allan is picking me
up at 1:30 for another tour. We travel
along the old road that parallels the canal, passing through Balboa. We passed
by Albrook and Clayton and on to Pedro Miguel.
There is a large cruise ship just entering the locks. It is the Norwegian Dream and it is just
starting to hook up with the first mules.
I take a few pictures and then we are back in the car. It is a very rainy day again, so pictures
are going to be catch as catch can.
Our next
sight is the new Centennial Bridge, which is beautiful. Allan drove us over and back just so I could
see it. It’s raining like hell, so I’m
taking pictures through the windshield.
We go through the town of Pedro Miguel and into Paraiso, both of which
look much like before, but maybe a bit more run down. At this point along the highway we are for the most part
surrounded by jungle and it is beautiful.
We also pass by Summit Gardens.
It’s still raining hard, but they don’t call this a tropical rain forest
for nothing. I remember as a kid, I
loved what I called the jungle and would go into it often. At this stage in life though, I think I will
stick to observing it from the edges.
We have
now reached the old, wooden one way bridge.
It is exactly the way it was 45 years ago. I can’t believe, that with all the modernization in Panama, that
this bridge is still here as though in a time warp. We wait for our light to turn green so we can cross. As though it were timed, the rain stops just
as we reach Gamboa.
Gamboa is different from anyplace else I’ve
seen so far. I can’t tell if the houses
are new or if the old ones have been redone to look new. Either way, they are very nice, each a
different color with white trim. There
is only one problem – they are all empty.
It seems they are only available for rent and Gamboa is just too far of
a commute.
Now, you
might remember a time when the train stopped here. Not the case anymore. The
train is modern, air conditioned and quite plush compared to what we once
knew. However, it leaves the Pacific
side every day at 7:30am. It leaves to
come back at 5:30pm. And, it does NOT make any stops along the way. I am told the round trip ticket is
$25.00. It seems most of the riders are
tourists or those that work on the other side in the Free Zone. The tracks do keep busy the rest of the time
with car after car of containers going back and forth all day and probably
through the night. So, I know not what
will become of the new Gamboa, but at least the lady in the little guard house
has a job baby sitting the place.
Allan and I
have now turned around and are heading back to Panama City. We need to pick up Elena from home and I
need to turn in my rental car.
This seems
like as good a place as any to finish my little talk about driving in
Panama. First off, there are not many
cities that I know of that are worse than Panama during rush hour. Secondly, I left out one of the most
important things one needs to know about driving through the city. That is, how and when to use the horn. And believe me, the horn is used for a
multitude of things. An example – If
you put your signal on to change lanes, you are telling the other driver that
you want to merge into his lane. If you
turn you signal on and honk your horn, you are telling the other driver to get
out of the way because you are coming over now and he better get the hell out
of your way. Another example is if you
want to pass someone on the right, you want to tap your horn a few times to let
them know your coming. On the other
hand, if you are in a good mood and want to let someone cut in front of you,
well, you tap the horn a few times then also.
And, if by chance they cut in front of you without your permission, yep,
you honk again, only with more vigor.
Basically, the horn is used for anything you like and it is up to the
guy in the other car to figure out the message you are trying to convey. Also, DO NOT ever honk you horn if you have
by chance accidentally cut the other guy off.
There is no need, because the other guy is going to get around you
anyway possible and do his best to try and run you off the road. So, honking at this point would not be
advisable. Don’t forget, everyone else
is honking in Spanish, and you don’t know the language.
Allan and
I have finally made our way to his house to pick up Elena and we are now headed
toward the Causeway. We pull into a
shopping center and Allan says, they will be just 5 minutes. Elena came back first then Allan a few
minutes later. They had purchased gifts
for me and my Lady. It was unexpected
and quite sweet of them.
So, we are
again making our way through the city.
Allan takes us by, and points out where the Tivoli Hotel used to
be. He said he had heard that much of
the mahogany from the Tivoli was used in the construction of another
hotel. As I remember, it was beautiful
wood.
I had
told Allan the story of me being kicked out of Balboa High for going to the El
Rancho and drinking my lunch, as my home room teacher, Mrs. Graham sat across
the room having lunch with her husband and son. I told him how Marvin and I proved we were not drinking and they
had to let us back in school and that in the end, Mrs. Graham was the one who
got in trouble. We were heroes. Well friends, Allan drove us to the El
Rancho and it is still here, in business, not looking a day older than it did
back in 1962.
From
there, it didn’t take long to get back to the hotel. Turning the rental car in consisted of making a phone call and
then giving the keys to whoever was at the front desk of the hotel. I wanted to take Allan and Elena someplace
nice, and since they had never been, took them to Bennigans. We first ordered drinks and Elena ordered in
Spanish – she is trying so hard to learn English. When her drink came, it was so large it took both hands to hold
the glass. Luckily there were straws,
so she didn’t have to flex her muscles.
We all had a good laugh – a good time – good food – good drink, but most
of all, good friends.
On the way
back to the hotel, Allan drove us through what used to be old Amador. The old buildings that are left, are also
empty and some are gone completely except for the foundations. Allan told me that the military tore some of
them down in the late 90’s well before the turnover. Who knows why! Maybe they
didn’t have anything else to do.
So, here
we are, in Front of the Country Inn & Suites. A handshake and hug for Allan and a hug and a kiss for
Elena. It is time to say goodbye.
I cannot
begin to express how wonderful these two people are. I had communicated once in awhile with Allan via email. In fact, it was the pictures he sent of what
has become of Kobbe beach that made me decide that I needed to come back
here. I wanted to come back while there
was still something left and I was still able.
So, about three months ago, I made my reservations and wrote Allan that
I was coming and that at some time during my visit, I would like to meet him. After all, he has kind of been my eyes down
here for the last few years. His
immediate response was, “I’ll pick you up at the airport”. Wow, I didn’t expect that. But, as I have found out, that’s the kind of
guy he is, and Elena, she is a sweetheart.
Not once did I ask Allan to take me anywhere or to show me anything, he
just did it. It’s like he could see
inside of me and knew what I wanted to see and where I wanted to go. He would just say, “I will take you on a
tour”, and off we would go. He knew I
wasn’t interested in jungle tours, eco-life and the other touristy things. My main focus was the old Zone – the good –
the bad – the old and the new.
Many of
you have been fortunate enough to see some of Allan’s pictures on the web, and
fine pictures they are. He has quite a
good eye. It has been a joy to meet the
man behind the pictures and his wonderful bride. I told them if they ever make it to the States, wherever they
might be there will be Kobbe Kids to meet and make sure they have a good time. Elena asked if I would come back. I said that I didn’t know, but if I do, I
will bring others with me. Then, it was
time to go – me to my room to pack, and Allan and Elena home.
Mr.
Gustavo, my driver, will be here at 5:00am to take me to the airport. After a layover in Miami, a change of planes
in Dallas followed by a two and half hour drive, I should be home by
midnight. I’m sure you are not
interested in any of those details.
I had
mentioned the Pensionado discount earlier.
It is a retiree (Pensionado) visa.
This type of visa is offered to anyone over the age of 18 that moves to
Panama. You do not have to be
retired. You only have to be able to
prove that you have a guaranteed government or private entity income of $500.00
per month - $600.00 if you are a couple, and an additional $100.00 per month,
per dependant. You will receive up to a
$10,000 exemption on personal property you bring into the country – pretty good
considering the value of used furniture.
Also, you can bring in a car every two years and that will be tax and duty
exempt also. With the Pensionado card
you are given, you are entitled to discounts in all restaurants, movie
theaters, hotels, doctors, dentists and much more. Panama wants us here.
They want us to spend and invest our money in Panama. Sound good?
Come down, check it out.
Everything costs less and you can get a discount on top of that. If you like city life, Panama City might be
the place for you. If you prefer a
slower lifestyle, the possibilities are endless. One negative though is that doctors and hospitals do not accept
USA Medicare - yet. However, this too
may change as more and more Americans make the move. Bangkok, Thailand and Manila in the Philippines, because of the
number of ex-pats that have relocated there, DO accept Medicare. There are approximately 25,000 Americans in
Panama already, with more coming all the time.
So, it is quite possible that Medicare will soon be accepted. Now, you have something to think about. I know it is something I will think about
and may consider in a few years.
Until then, like my friend Allan says, Saludos!
Jack Frediani
Kobbe Kid
KobbeKids.com
Post Script
Most guides will tell
you that the language in Panama is Spanish, but most, especially those that
work in the service industry also speak English. I have not found this to be true. Most restaurant menus are in Spanish and not all servers speak
English. The same holds true with taxi
drivers and the National Police. You DO
want to be able to communicate with the National Police.
This has been a very interesting trip, that
for some reason, I felt I had to take.
Fortunately, I came with an open mind and very few expectations. If anyone has the opportunity to come to
Panama, by all means do. Come see the
people, the cultures, the cities and the interior. Come rediscover the history that makes Panama the wonderful,
beautiful place that it is.
DO NOT
come looking for the Canal Zone. It’s
not here anymore. The canal and the
locks that we remember are still here, but most everything else of what was, is
no longer. And yes, our beloved Kobbe
is still here but the houses are white and empty and at this time, I don’t know
what is to become of them. Except for
the lone kutamundi, the National Police and Dell computer down by the hangers,
Kobbe has died and with the white paint on all the houses, it looks quite
stark, almost like a ghost town.
Thankfully, we all have our memories, memories that will last forever. After all, that’s what makes us Kobbe Kids.
Most Kobbe
Kids had the fortune, or misfortune (depending on your point of view) of moving
half way around the world every few years.
Kobbe was our Paradise. Pardon
the pun, but- - - - - - Paradise lost.
I can only try to imagine what our Canal Zone friends that were born and
raised here must feel. The Canal Zone
we once knew is gone, but to many, it still is a paradise. So, come, check it out. Maybe you can find what may be your new
Paradise. And, I highly recommend, as
it would be quite helpful, that you learn a few key words or phrases in
Spanish. After all Spanish is the
language of Panama and it is their country.
We are the visitors and the ones that need to adapt.